Scotnatrail 36-38. Ullapool-Knockdamph-Magoo's. Bothy Time (inc. the most beautiful day of my life)

Day 36 Ullapool to Knockdamph bothy

In the morning I make an inventory of the food I have then pack up with beautiful views over Ullapool and the cry of gulls, slightly wishing I was walking to the sea instead of inland.

There’s a tall three masked ship in harbour. Oh how I wish I could sail! Out across dark waters. I may have gained the confidence to hitchhike but not yet to get a ride on a boat. But the islands! The islands out there! And the call of gulls is stronger to me now than the longing for hills

I could be go on a boat to Stornaway

The ferry that was heading off as I packed had been sitting in the harbour with little boats going back and forth- why? Are they evacuating the huge ferry on tiny boats?

I also love the amount of signs on geology I’ve been seeing, here one points out the contacts of the moine thrust. Also, there’s a rock route! But you need a car :(

Everywhere is closed, only 8:39 so wander the town slowly.

I walk along the shore side on its pebble beach, walking the ribbon of washed up seaweed and wool for firm footing

I eat seaside blackberries and marvel at all this

I then buy a stupid amount of food at Tesco. No idea how it will fit.

I go to the ceiledh place for breakfast feel a bit ripped off as the breakfast is expensive yet no replacement for all the gluten stuff but they’re so lovely here

And as I’m about to leave I see Laurens (one of the Dutch guys from Moal bruises)there! It’s so cool to see him and he says they’ve a spare place in the bunk room tonight, with Nicole and Billy. I go out to shop and straight away see Nicole and billy in town - how increadible! I buy a book and candles and a map then head to say bye to them. Don’t know which the right decision would have been to stay or to go on. They are all such wonderful people with increadible stories but I head off at 1 pm to begin my third mini adventure. Bothy time. (Although continue to spend time dawdling as I head out of town)

My bag is stupidly heavy :) so I know it will feel like a long day. But I hope to be there by 8. I smell a cottage’s roses as I head out of town and stop at the Highland stoneware pottery. The work is utterly beautiful- painted pottery with scenes of scotland, mountains behind cotton grass and ocean sky’s . I wish I could buy one of the beautiful mugs! They are so lovely/ i know Grannie Sue would love this place.

All the extra dawdling (including making my bag lighter by a banana and crisps ) means I don’t actually leave town till half past 1

It is a really easy track - trees about turned grey by the dust of quarry vehicles. But I do not find my very very heavy bag at all easy

The first Loch comes into view shadowed by a magnificent Glen. I breath out A sigh - a good one— I have returned to the hills

And straight away the rain starts.

Welcome back to Scotland, it ain’t seaside drives and tourist cafes and sweltering sun, it says, it’s a harsh land of wide grey views and lakes rippling with rainfall that writes its own songs.

Thankfully this waterproof has a better more structured hood that stays up, so my hat can keep doing it’s essential job covering the gap in the top of my bags where it’s too full to close!

The loch side track passes little boats and a beautiful red wooden boat house.

The sheep seem curious why someone is walking out in the rain

Long later, I meet a Californian lady who says she’s working on a nearby farm for a month. and loving the rain ( apparently fires are bad out there) what a cool thing to do. Another person doing something completely other to their previous life.

The midges are incredibly annoying preventing the breaks I desperately need to ease my neck pain. I take shelter in an open shed at East Rhidorroch and eat a Nairn’s under my head net

After the farm is a long steep climb to round the joint of the two glens. I find it so boring and exhausting, been counting down the hours since the very start; I know it probably seems stupid to be doing extra walking when Quitting the trail rather than just continuing on the trail but in my head today is just an a to b - the journey is of little value and must be endured. But 4.3km to go. I have been doing a pretty impressive 4km an hour

I am very happy to see the white of the loch in which Knockdamph is located as I crest the rise. I have to walk along it, but that’s the home straight.

The loch goes on and on as time drifts by slowly in the somber light.

I think I see two people standing on a rise before me, then I realise it’s two chimneys. 6:30. 5 hrs for 20km.

I had not anticipated the most from Knockdamph, it is much bigger than I’d thought- a proper house, it even has mattresses and beds (I’m happy with my thermarest on the wooden sleeping platform though, don’t want to risk bugs) but also a little strange. It is definitely not cosy . I reckon it will be a scary night here.

But heat water and start eating! ( need to get my weight down! And this is my bothy relaxation adventure after all

On tonight’s menu:

Cheddar cheese and a dash of salsa on oat cakes

Is it the whole block of cheddar making my bag so heavy?

Hot chocolate

Gf pot noodles!

All while reading the bothy book

Some highlights

• A fantastic meal prepared on the bothy fire for new year 2019 (including pies)

• Sky mcgregor a 16 year old doing cape wrath in winter as part of LEJOG (Feb 2019)

• I think I found Lisa the train lady’s entry!

• Theo,15 three days ahead of me on CWT giving shoutouts to al the amazing hospitality he’s had in bothies.

• ‘No such thing as bad weather in scotland just the wrong clothes!’

• A Richard Hyde from fife doing my cross route from the east

It takes me a long time- three attempts to get it lit (helped by removing the review pages of my book!) and then a very long time keeping it alive- but I manage to build a small fire, proud of myself. Back to eating

Marshmallows toasted on the fire(I knew my knitting needle would come in handy, slightly not right though; for roasting marshmallows to not be a social experience.

Uncertain what to do tomorrow. If I want to go to Coire mor it makes sense to go from here, but if I want to wait to see my cwt friends pass then it is an easy 7 to schoolhouse.

Day 37. Knockdamph to Magoos bothy

I was thankful the night was still, free from worrisome sounds. And I did get decent stretches of sleep in the quiet. Only the occasional sounds from my dying fire.

There is less cloud with the morning.

I am a bit sad I am here alone. it’s a good grounding experience to feel so utterly alone in an old house in an empty Glen. But I want the social experiences of bothies!!

Breakfast: more yummy oaty biscuits with chunks of mature cheddar and salsa, sweet coffee, apple and blueberry porridge

I spend a long time deciding what to do. I’d like to go on the easy 7km to schoolhouse to see my moal Bhuidhe friends as they pass. But that would mean the walk to Choire Mhoir is a there and back again which could be boring. So instead I can head out from here and it is a loop

Taking time to do a much needed sweep of the bothy i leave at ten. Heading back along the loch to circle round. The water of the loch is completely still. It almost disappears from sight, reflecting the mountain

It is an increadibly beautiful sight. Birds flitting and singing.

As I’m walking along the loch I see two backpackers- one waves- it’s Billy and Nicole! Covered by 10am what I covered by 6pm last night! So great to see them and makes my decision not to go to schoolhouse fine

I cut down to walk along the gravel on the loch side.

I turn round to see if Laurens is on the track and what the ….! A giant plane is flying straight towards me!!!!!! Like 30m above the loch!!!!!! It passes so close, but far enough in the centre of the loch I’m not too scared it will crash into me - I’m just flabbergasted - an raf plane? It was all black, and big. No clue and the silence of it shocked me, I heard no sound of it approaching though do here a little sound as it goes away, did that really happen?! I videod it. But I’m still reeling as I walk on.

After a break in a pretty hut at the end of the loch and then losing my path, I refind it and head around Mullach a Bhreun leitir, passing along the side of a beautiful gorge.

It’s over clouded but warm and there’s a gentle breeze- the perfect conditions.

The mountains ahead are incredible- huge pointy craggy peaks. That is where I’m headed!

The path is excellent; obvious and possibly maintained, only muddy in a few places. Then suddenly; there it is, far away, Loch a Choire Mhoire deep in its Corrie surrounded by crags

As I come onto a track, in awe of the view, I come across a funny way marker, a fanciful red metal arrow on a tick pointing to Ullapool

I shortcut a corner across bog that would probably normally be awful but one day of rain hasn’t made up for the dry weeks

As I head into the Corrie the winds are changing. Clouds blow in from the west greying out the peaks before me.

I arrive! Deep in the Corrie beside the loch.

And I have to choose! Between Magoos bothy and Coiremor

Magoos was built as a memorial to an RAF pilot who died in Kosovo, the last entry in the bothy book is from his family who visited on the 23rd august. Magoo’s has a big table too and lots of things- even games. However Coiremore is much brighter with a roof light.

But I eventually decide on Magoos because of its big windows so I can see the loch. And it creaks less in the wind. There are enough candles to make up for any dimness. I also like that I can bolt the door. Not very bothy code but makes it easier not to be scared in this far away place.

Now lunchtime then swim before the breeze dies.

I’m not brave enough to actually swim in the loch - or to take the boat out though I would love to, and certainly would if not on my own. But I paddle in the shallows. The wind is strong but surprisingly warm - it’s actually warmer out in the wind than inside!

By the time all that is done and a second batch of water collected, it is four. Time for afternoon tea! I wear my warm hat for the first time. It’s not cold, just want to stay cosy.

But the gases that have been left are not compatible with my stove so don’t want to waste gas- therefore, it has to be a fire! I get it going first time round this time - though worry it’s not big enough. Manage to perch the kettle on the top and wait to see. And it genuinely works! Maybe a few bits of soot in my coffee but pleased.

I head outside with my coffee and chocolate digestives to read my book in the breeze blowing the loch and admire the mountains. I do not think you could ask anything more of life. Than to be in the most beautiful of places, with a cozy hut with a fire crackling indoors and the kettle just boiled. Warm midge free breeze. Tea and biscuits and time and light to read. I take a selfie , unsure whether to smile, unsure how I am this lucky.

The theme at the start of he book - The Midnight Library- mirrors exactly the quote on the entrance to Maggo’s

So many people live within unhappy circumstances and yet will not take the initiative to change their situation because they are conditioned to a life of security… which may appear to give one peace of mind but in reality is more damaging to the adventurous spirit within a man than a secure future. The very basic core of a mans living spirit is his passion for adventure

….

I actually struggle to read, because I’m having a little cry.

How to I deserve this much perfection in my life? Me, 20 year old me, experiencing what half the world dreams of, peace food warmth sanctuary beauty happiness. All those years, all those years. And here I am. Unable to read because what I am receiving is far too good for me. This moment. This is what dreams are made of. And I am living it right here right now. What am I meant to do? But at the end it was choice that took me here. Active choice, endurance. this goodness was not found by luck, like we all expect, I looked for it. And it came.

Since alevels my life has turned around, maybe not obviously but for me the change from constant lack to having prayers fulfilled is so noticeable. All I have wished for has come to be. And I am so utterly thankful. Only the wind to hear; and whip away my sobs.

Please friends, please evryone. If you’re stuck in your life unsatisfied. Get out, take time adventuring, where you must endure but also where you re not tethered. And the view will become different. Your perception on what your future needs becomes clearer. Please don’t just continue on. I have met so many wonderful people out here who have recently quite jobs to work outside, retired to study new degrees and explore, left home, changed up, people so happy despite of uncertainty. Uncertainty seen in a different way is freedom. Freedom in options. People So happy they were brave enough to change. My book, as I read in this place of heaven, talks of exactly that. In stagnation the reason for existence is all muddled and grey. We can’t see for risk of upsetting the balance when we climb that one rung higher for a clearer view. But the risks never really existed. The ties are not really the insurmountable things they seem. You are not tethered. Nothing is above you. Nothing is below you. Pride comes from yourself, not from perceptions of you.

Magoo lived his life on that principle

live.

I continue to read this beautiful book. When I return inside, the fire has died down, but it is very hot and easily builds up again.

Dinner is more coffee, then cheesy mash potato with carrot (a real carrot!) more cheddar cheese and sausage, topped with dollops of salsa . Then more biscuits and marshmallows.

And of course the only song that could be in my head

I sit beside the fire and think

Of all that I have seen

Of meadow-flowers and butterflies

In summers that have been

Of yellow leaves and gossamer

In autumns that there were

With morning mist and silver sun

And wind upon my hair

I sit beside the fire and think

Of how the world will be

When winter comes without a spring

That I shall ever see

For still there are so many things

That I have never seen

In every wood in every spring

There is a different green

I sit beside the fire and think

Of people long ago

And people who will see a world

That I shall never know

But all the while I sit and think

Of times there were before

I listen for returning feet

And voices at the door

I go outside and sing quietly to the hills. I lie on the picnic bench and just lie there. Watching the clouds above, flying by at different speeds in different layers and the hilltops all around. I can’t put words to this. It is too much, too perfect.

Heating dinner over the fire in a pan

Reading by the light of the window, then by the bright Iight of candle and more marshmallows made into s’mores.

Steaming water

Clothes swinging dry.

Fading light over the mountains. Dry now and then I lean back to check how the triangular summit opposite is faring. a final flame of orange glows on its peak. the hills descend to darkness

If one advances confidently in the direction of his dream, and endeavours to live the life which he has imagined , he will meet with a success unexpected in the common hours.

The night is dark. I realise, I haven’t seen the moon in a very long time. What’s it been up to?

As the fire burns down to faint red I blow out all but one candle and head to my bunk

///////////

Day 38. Maggo’s to Strath Cuileannach

The view from Magoo's bedroom window on the morning is captivating, wind blown grass, wind blown water. Thick dark wavlets running across the loch.

As if the picture of perfection was not complete, last night I saw the stars above the mountains. The Milky Way breaking in and out between blown clouds. I saw a shooting star. OH breathtaking place, you have my heart.

In the morning I consider my exit strategy. It is at least two days walking but I don’t know where to break today. The risk is the further bothy is not open as it is not mba. Schoolhouse is probably nicer as well and a chance to meet people, but that leaves 32km tommorrow and I’ll probably miss any trains , unless I can hitchhike

When I finally leave my bunk and the view of the mountain top appears. Oh this is beautiful.

I return to the cold fire place, now ash covered. Breakfast is cheddar and sausage in pita (I somehow managed to get six pitas in my four pack no wonder it was so heavy) hot chocolate, porridge.

As I eat I stare through the window. A rectangle of green mountainside. No sky. No trees. Just the steep ascent of rock and grass bright in the sun. Sometimes cloud shadows move across. Sometimes the rocks glisten lit from the South. Too much to see just in that single view

The wind is strong but inside I am tight and safe.

I go out to sit in the boat to eat my porridge. I would so love to take it out. But I don’t think I’m strong enough in my own. Ah well. Hopefully when I return.

I clean up sweep up and leave after ten.

The sun is broad and the wind strong and warm

Magoo has a piece of my heart

Wondering how to restart

After beauty like this

Magoo has a piece of my heart

There’s a hut in a Corrie in Scotland

Beside a loch dark

Magoo has a piece of my heart

In fire and cheddar and candles

And toasted marshmallows

Magoo has a piece of my heart

There are memories of wading in water

And reading by flame.

Magoo has a piece of my heart

Wondering how to restart

By the flight of shooting stars

Magoo has a piece of my heart

In the sound of the water on loch waves

And wind in the grass

.

The weather is beautiful and the walk gentle on a good track across stunning land. But my mind is in strange Places. Trying to grapple with all that I’ve done. All that I’ve seen. All that I’ve gained. On Scotnatrail.

Two land rovers of fishermen pass, off to the loch, then i talk to Scottish walkers off to climb SB (Seana Bhraigh) and have a lovely chat - great friendly dog.

Where the track has cut the peat, chunky old tree roots are exposed, about 30cm

From the top, the preserved remains of the old forests that name this area

The old that is strong does not whither

Deep roots are not reached by the frost

It is uncountable beautiful. The sun. The meadow flowers, the cloud, the pointed peaks, the pebbly river, the warm breeze.

Bike packers too. Very popular outdoor persuit

It’s overclouded by the time I finally reach Schoolhouse (1:20)- exactly 3 hours, I am Becoming good

(had to deal with some of the devil flies ugh )

Schoolhouse is incredible. It’s an actual schoolroom! With old desks and chalk board And amazing books- maybe I should have stayed here? No Magoos is so much remoter.

An old cyclist comes by twice and we chat. I dawdle reading the old books here

Then I go to wash- at first I stay cautious, only legs in the water; but I start clambering and wading over the rocks - spectacular rocks with beautiful cleavage exposed by the river in layers. It’s sort of addicting and adventurous so I keep going and then I find I’m above a shoot - a water slide - leading into a big pool. The slide is a little to dangerous for me to try but I clamber down and have my first proper swim of the trip, it’s the best wild swimming pool I’ve ever found. Surrounded by rock. Extraordinary

I boil some more hot water when I get back to warm up. It’s not sunny anymore!

More reading. I set off again just before 5 to do the 7km to the next bothy that may or may not be open

The change in weather has tragically killed the wind. I walk with my midge net because I can’t be asked to deal with the flying things.

Just as I started to think maybe the bothy only exists on maps.me. It come into sight. The light came out lovely as I walk to it. The bothy is very basic, without glass in the windows only shutters. I think there is no point staying as it is warm out. But I log in the bothy book and collect water. Ticks on my trousers so I’ll go on a bit. More devil flies about as I walk on which isn’t fair - it’s a pretty evening!!

Let the adventure end as it begin; an evening walk in warm air seeking the perfect campsite.

I see deer gathered by the farm ahead the first I’ve seen. And a lot of them. Ticks.

I set up by the river, midges covering my hands ( I don’t mind that they rarely seem to bite hands but this waterproof is not so sealed at the wrists so I do get some bites)

Like my tent breaking on the final night of Hadrian’s wall, fate decided to be kind again and choices the final night of my Scottish adventure to burst my filtration bag! I ve collected 2l which should do me till mid morning and hopefully I’ll be by houses then .

My final dinner in my tent is sea to summit chicken tikka rice and hot chocolate, followed by marshmallows and digestives. - I put the marshmallows in the hot Choctaw so they melt then dunk the digestive to pick up the marshmallow to make a sort of s’more . (This is all hoping I don’t have to wildcamp by Ardgay tomorrow!)

A bird with a whistling loud call keeps flying around, it’s cry flying back off the valley sides.

I’m glad to have one final night in the tent, with all its procedure. I set the alarm for 6 tommorrow. It’s 23km to Ardgay and I’ve no idea when the last train out is (though I did read something about 6 a day south so fingers crossed all is fine)