South Downs way: day 7 Saddlescombe to Housdean

Day 7

Last night I was trying to figure if a memory of a location I had was in the Cotswold way, then realised it was day two of sdw, it feels such a long time ago, descending from that first beacon hill, and the scenery is increadibly different. I’m not sure where it changed, but it changed a lot, there’s no more beeches here, maybe after Graffham when I first climbed Bignor hill- the trees receded and the sea came into view (and the sun cane out- maybe Beacon hill would also feel like this if it hadn’t been raining) . The stars were beautiful at midnight again, but still I can only appreciate the stars with an evening brain, not a night brain, if dew didn’t exist I think we’d have a lot more experience of the stars. I was amazed how quickly I was sorted this morning- an hour, which scuppered my plan of leaving at the same time the Wild Flour cafe on site opened and getting something nice on the way out. The sun is up and powerful. The water here is so tasty, it’s funny how much more I can taste the water flavour when I’m walking- the one they filled up at Amberley was horrible, but most tastes beautifully sweet. I explore the farm again before I leave. It’s all national trust, and one of the best traditional farms surviving, and has great information boards. I set off 9:30, but on the way out go see the donkey wheel, basically a giant hamster wheell. Climbing a flowering hill under a bright blue morning sky. I look back: Saddlescombe in the fold of the hills, the devils dyke behind, green rolled fields dotted with cream sheep, and the blue tinged Weald, and Chanctonbury ring on the middle distance, Brighton poking out to the left. Deep blue sea, bright blue sky above, pale blue sky in the north west. I get good signal at the top of the hill and publish day 5&6 blog. On the other side of the hill the whole of Brighton glistens in the sun, a great windswept hawthorn and view of the fort remains on Wolstonbury hill. An absolutely stunning morning, only affected by the roar of the busy road, removes the serenity of this place. There’s a windmill on the hill ahead. I love the wobbled shape of the fields, and the crop lines folding with the hill , or sheep tracks drawing contour lines on the steep slopes. It’s a ‘good morning’ rather than’morning’ sort of day. A cute foal cuddles up to its mother. Over the busy a23 road, and by Pycombe church which looks fascinating- there’s building work going on. Up the next hill I make a detour to visit the Clayton windmills, Jill gleaming white, jack painted black. The sun bouncing of the bright white track, head baking under my hat. More climbing. Chanctonbury ring back in view behind me, with downs -presumably north and south- bubbling behind. Three more wind bent hawthorns on a tumulus, branches running away from the sea. A track leads town to the chattri war memorial, would be nice to visit. A cyclist trying to fix a puncture at the top of a down, not a bad place if any to have such a problem. Along the down towards ditching beacon. each head of The wheat, turned to the north, glistens. There is a field over there full of red flowers, I wonder if they’re Poppy’s. I pass two dew ponds. The tough grass is predominantly spangled with yellow flowers that look like small dandelions, but There a beautiful patch of purple bell shaped flowers nod surrounded bya yellow crowd. So many flowers, and purple clover intermixed. A smaller bird of prey flapping quickly on the breeze. I’m closer now to that beautiful patch of red flowers and see that the small field is mixed with yellow and and purple too amoung pale green - like an old paint pallet that won’t scrub clean. The 360 views from the ditching head trig point are Marvellous. The highest of the Sussex South Downs . I eat lunch there with the sun on my back. Despite what the guide book says it’s not busy at all. Me the crickets the fly’s and the occasional cyclist going by. The breeze and the sun combine to make the perfect temperature - the blissful feeling of not needing another layer, nor needing shade either, just my skin will keep me cozy enough . I could fall asleep right here lulled by the sound of crickets, the mumbling breeze. Few traffic sounds reach up here, just the occasional plane. Fear no more the heat of the sun, nor the furious winter rages, thou thy earthly time hath done, homes behind, and taken thy wages. Golden girls and boys all must, like chimney sweepers come to dust. Over and over the lines role in my brain. I sit. There’s no urgency today. Just the sun and me and the world below. Chanctonbury ring now a long way off, heading into the haze of distance, but not so far that Walking here to there would not be unthinkable. I am coming round to the South Downs way. There is something so beautiful in the endless line, knowing I’ve walked over each of those hills. East and west the same stretching plane of the Weald, same stretching roll of the yellow south downs, some stretching shadow of the blue north downs. 8km left I reckon. it’s one. I’ll see if it’s two or three hours (although I’ll probably take more rest). Over the borough of the hill. First an intake of breath at the beautiful site of a crowd of white birds slowly circling on the thermal, round and round suspended by the air. And then I see through them and see a white streak at the edge of the sea: it’s the white cliffs!!! Could that be beachy head, or another set (no I think that low bit might actually be the mouth of the river Ouse which I’ll pass tommorrow morning) - neither of which will come out well in a photograph. There’s a big stadium down to the south. A crow perched on the fence watching - beautiful birds. These circling birds though! I get cLoser and closer to them on the top of home brow, round and round, silently, making no call. There must be one hundred gulls there. Outstretched Shadows swooping over the grass. I think I’ve had my last view of Chanctonbury ring. The two o’clock sun is increadibly hot. I’m sweating now in my hat. Plumpton agricultural college is spread out below. My eyes feel soar- tired. I have to stop for shade. On, on a long ridge till I make it to black cap where the route turns south. I march a km, seeking somewhere to rest, and finding the promised point shadeless I go through a gate and sit under a nearby hawthorn, cooling off, drinking water, resting my soar feet (brilliantly I haven’t had any blister pain today, just pressure pain after a long day). I feel so tired, and the 13 km or whatever I’ve done today can’t be the cause, maybe just poor sleep and the heat. That was a good spot, but I get on after a bit, following butterflies in the long grass. Hot hot hot over the fields thistle fluff and long grass butterflies. A long way ahead what I me think is a windmill makes a huge six pointed white star. Clouds of flys simmer over the field. Bunkershill plantation is blessedly cool, though steeply uphill- wouldn’t cycle it. Out again. I can see tomorrow’s walk but not camp yet. A train goes past the. I can see a tent. Down a steep slope then along the main roads again. I’m hoping to like the camp as at Holden (which was lovely), she said that Housdean are their friends, and I do. I sit in Th e shade of a tree desciding on pitch site, then set up under the baking sun. Another camper chats with me for quite a while as I set up -about pct and camping (I think he was admiring my tent- I smiled when, at wood fire camping, the kids going past said to each other ‘it must be cozy in there’ and a father said to a quizzical little girl ‘yes it’s a lovely little tent’- I’m so proud of my home) then I have a very very long shower and wash clothes. I buy a calipo and elderflower lemonade which I eat in the shade of the old tree while I phone home- I feel tired, and annoyed that the weathers not going to be good I’d rather not know! . I drank nearly two litres when I got into camp and while sorting stuff , plus the calipo and drink, which is good- I only carried two litres today which I thought was fine, but maybe could have done with a bit more-maybe that’s why I’m so tired?. They have charging and a kettle- yay save gas. My seat/bag Boots bag is so great as a multi purpose kit, such a good discovery. Pasta cooks perfectly ( though have to wash away some of the stock after trying), and make my fredo hot chocolate. I eat it all down fine- in fact quicker then yesterday even though there’s more and I felt less hungry. The hot chocolates excellent- very sweet and rich! But after I have sudden tummy pain, diarreah, and feel very sick. The father and son from last camp are here- they left early to miss the heat, I consider if I should do that too, but I prefer walking in the heat to being in camp in it. I’m literally waiting now for the sun to set on my tent as it’s too hot to go in otherwise. I’ve got a tan line where I wore the rubber band in my wrist. It’s 7:30, i wanted to sleep by eight. But I think my tent will be in the shade soon: the shadows are long. And thankfully The pain has gone away- the toilets are absolutely boiling though as the doors are weighted so can’t air them. 7:45 and the shadows reached along. Time for bed.