Hadrian’s Wall: Birdoswald to Once Brewed. The beauty of hills

Day 6; 15/16km; 7/8hr

Last night’s bed turned out not to be so comfy, as the (waterproof?) duvet left me wet and cold; so I pilched a fluffy blanket from another bed instead. Breakfast was a yummy selection of jams, gf cornflakes and four pieces of gf toast. I confused the Austrians by trying to explain marmite; I think he’s sent a photo to his friends captioned ‘beer marmalade’. The clouds had emptied heavy rain over breakfast so the sun was out brightly by the time I set off.

Leaving Slack House, I headed down and up back to Birdoswald, my left ankle giving me pain with each step, having a peak at the fort that held 1000 soldiers, then rejoined the trail: the longest surviving stretch of wall marching into the distance. Scanning for engravings described in my book, I think i spotted one - hint: boys still graffiti this sign today, though not to ‘ward off the evil eye’! Milecastle 49 was pretty grand, but on the down hill path after I really struggled with my ankle, in quite a bit of pain, so stopped to get out my poles.

Enjoying the fact that the name of ‘wall ford’ farm had been corrupted over the years to Willowford; a century stone was visible in the wall.

A temporary diversion took me past the lively playground of Gilsand primary school, and the enticing House of Meg tea rooms (apparently written about by Walter Scott). The village also had a lovely public toilet, and amazing playground with a very long slide. Leaving the village to the very loud horn of the passing train, soon the Crags ahead were dramatic in the skyline. I strode out the next section with energy keeping company with the deep wall ditch, for a break beside a farm; apparently now on course for the Tyne ( before, all waters headed to the Solway).

I passed a terrace of miners houses, Thirwall Castle in view - rumoured (unfeasibly) as St Patrick’s birthplace. I walked up and round exploring these great ruins.

After a long hard climb I came up to grand views: the striking dolerite rock columns clear ahead. I stopped to eat my lunch in the friendly shop of Walltown quarry country park, although on the way off a couple got on my nerves by advising me about my bag because of the advice they’d been told in a shop - I doubt their little day sacks gave them any sense what carrying all that weight felt like!

I then set off for the most spectacular part of the journey so far; climbing up with the wall onto the Walltown crags (or Whin Sill). With sheer cliffs and long stretches of consolidated Wall to the left and slow slopes on the right - plus views all the way north and south. metal loops at the cliff edge provided Evidence of use by climbers. I could see the undulating land and scarp edges for miles, The Pennines south, Scotland north; alive and broad, knowing this is the British countryside I missed so much in Canada.

With this ridge ending, the route past between two small pine woods and angles through fields to the next ridge, very visible from afar. This section has many annoying ladders stiles, and I had been lagging, tired, for a bit and making slow progress.

After a bit of road and another old quarry lake. Climbing up steeply, I followed some walkers ahead right up To Milecastle 41 and the wall - they forced carts and all passing the frontier up the slopes to block the weakness of the Hole Gap. The Vallum ditch on the right was really evident stretching out past here.

Catching the couple ahead, from Durham, I had an interesting chat; they were very knowledgeable pointing out all the historic things of interest.

The wall rollercoastered up and down, with steep stepped rises leaving my hot despite the wind. Seeing the trig point of Winshields Crag was a wonderful sight, knowing my exit was near. 345m and the highest point of the wall. And to my great surprise, after climbing the long slope to the summit I found Tess at the top (my companion from my first full trail day).

From here, with Once Brewed in sight at the bottom of the hill, I walked down the last long road at double pace despite my very sore feet, to reach the Youth Hostel at 5:15- later than I have been so far, and feeling I had done a tough day.

A nice bunk in a room of four (two danish girls and another I haven’t yet met). I showered, and laid stuff to dry in the drying room, meeting some guys who have apparently been wild camping on the wall - have to wait till late and be off early to avoid being noticed! Then went for the ‘supper club’ I’d booked, for a really good curry meal, choc ice and yogurt. Even better when I came back to the room, the danish girls had gone to bed so nice and quiet For a good sleep