Hadrian’s Wall: Newcastle, Wallsend, & South Shields. A good day.

Day 9+1

I slept irregularly with sore feet as always. I spent more time uploading photos for yesterday’s post in the morning then packed. I put on my clean fluffy socks and went out to explore.

I visited Grainger market with its curious mix of shops- fish mongers next to book sellers and butchers by haberdasheries. I then found a pret a manger for breakfast.

After walking down the classical Grey Street I came to the Black Gate of the castle which was a really interesting construction and had some very interesting photographs of the area during the Industrial Age when the neighborhood was a crowded slum.

I bought a ticket and visited the exhibition that gave a good sense of the gates social history. I then crossed under the railway viaduct that chopped destructively through the area to the castle keep - progress and railway mania. I thought the exhibitions of the castle were better than those in Carlisle though that had seen perhaps a more interesting history- I felt it was well worth my visit as it really was a remarkable castle with all traditional medieval features . An excellent video down in the cellar gave a lot of fascinating facts eg the castlated turrets we’re all Victorian. The chapel had superb Norman carvings on the arches. The great hall had an incredibly high roof, with a good view from the gallery and a 30m well. After a lot of steep steps (hill climbing for the day!) I came out to the roof - ‘the best view in Newcastle’ it certainly was grand- all the bridges In Sight and what the Victorian’s were thinking with the railway crossing astonishingly right through the castle.

Next stop was the Cathedral, on entry faced with grand classical statues of the cities industrialists. This cathedral had a very different character to Carlisles, more somber and gothic with intricate wood carvings a particular feature. I had a cup of tea and contemplated.

Next I headed down towards the station and stoped at the Literary and Philosophical Society which was an incredible place with walls of books, spiral stairs, grand roof lights And a rich senSe of History.

Next I continued past the station to visit St Mary’s cathedral, built by Pugen (who did the Houses of Parliament and revitalised Gothic architecture- I became very interested in him after watching an excellent documentary ), and is inspiring in its colour fullness.

I then picked up lunch at Sainsbury’s and bought a ticket for the metro navigating its crossings to Wallsend, with occasional views of the urban area.

And so I reached Segedunum, the end of the wall -though not my journey. I sat on a bench beside the marked out Roman fort and ate my lunch then wandered round, the shipyard where the Mauritania was built nearby. I then went into the museum, bought a drinks mat and had tea and orange cake in the viewing cafe (I didn’t bother with I ticket for the museum) I spotted the Austrian couple going round the fort!

I returned to Wallsend station and took the metro to north shield, the sound of seagulls greeting my exit. I then headed down to the ferry terminal, seeing it heading across towards me. With great views up to the traditional fishing quays and down to the industrial area - a huge cruise ship in dock the ferry crossed over to South Shields.

I headed left and walked along the riverside, passing a nice statue and posh housing to Arabia Roman fort, Once manned by barge men from Mesopotamia. I was very pleased I made the trip as it really was an impressive reconstruction, it was perhaps the best of all the sites I’ve seen and completely free. The reconstruction of the commanding officers house was absolutely fascinating. I was very sorry to rush.

Rushing I headed east in the road determined to make it to the sea and then there it was in sight; the North Sea! I quick marches down to the beach and jogged down the steps to let the waves wash my boots. I could finally say I had traveled coast to coast.

Not wanting to lose time I quickly headed back up the slope and took the road to the metro station, having to turn on my heel as the one marked was being demolished. Fortunately my moment of worry was unwarranted as a brand new station was round the corner. I sat down and opened my drink (I had planned it for the beach but didn’t want to risk any delays!). I felt I’d achieved a very good day of sightseeing.

The metro took me on the south side of the tyne (through jarrow!) to Monument and I headed promptly back down Grainger street to pick up my bag. I bought a gf toasted sandwich crisps and a ‚‘pumpkin‘ spice latte at Starbucks and reached my platform with plenty of time. Soon the train arrived and, as this was its first stop i had a nice amount of time to sort my stuff. Then I was off, heading home after a little adventure.

Whilst yesterday felt like a disappointing end today definitely made up for it; I visited every site I wanted to, And had a busy and interesting time.

Thoughts and summary to follow.