Hadrian’s Wall: Chollerford to East Wallhouses. Sun and the military road

Day 8; 6.5 hr; 13/14 km

Getting up last Night I had come out my tent - getting wet as always- to a stunning night sky, the Milky Way clearly visible (though I didn’t stay long with the wet ground and cold). I had a wearthers Original in the night, to help boast my temperature. 1

This morning I checked my watch to realise I had over slept by an hour and a half. I forwent cooking for porridge and chocolate all in one then set off over the bridge after 9:30.

Taking a road shortcut to avoid the path’a detour, and passing the narrowing of the wall at Plantrees, I felt I made descent progress for a rest on a nice bench (they’re few and far between!) after St Oswalds Church. The sun shone hot. I want to recommend a kissing gate builder to this section of the wall as it’s obsessed with stiles.

The path continued on for many kms through long open fields beside the road. I had definitely left the wide rugged landscape of the hills (although there were still plenty of ups and downs). Again pleased with my progress I stoped, thirsty, on the warm step stile at the top of a hill, the sun bright over the patchwork landscape, remeeting the man in the white shirt from yesterday, the Austrian couple, and a group of backpackers all crossing.

I stoped again shortly, to rebook campsites with mums help, having realised the Robin Hood Inn, on the Trail, took campers - saves a 2km diversion he wrong way which will be helpful tomorrow. Continuing through the shade of Stanley Plantation and back into open sunshine and green fields. I stoped at the chaotic but friendly Errington coffee house (packed full with walkers) to fill up my water and use the toilet, planning to head on for a nice lunch spot in the trail.

I found just the spot in the shade of a gnarled old oak, part of an avenue leading apparently to the remains of Halton Castle. I took a little wander (my ankles as always super painful after resting) to spot the castle before heading off again.

Heading off I had A huge example of Vallum ditch to climb. The next 5 k were much harder than I expected; whilst the morning seemed to go like a pleasant breeze, I found my feet really suffering over this stretch, and plodded on head down. At least it was not really far to go (I could have been going to heddon!)

Finally reaching the Robin Hood Inn - a very pubby pub, i went on and was taken round to a field behind, without any shelter to sort stuff in its the most basic I’ve had, but was fine today as the weather was clear. I set about putting up my tent, when, pegging our thedoor, it suddenly fell back, confused I realised the pole had broken. This led to the next half hour trying to fix it different ways with tape. Finally - after a panic- it seemed stable enough and I went for my shower in the pub. After I came back, deciding to have dinner here and had I good full Sunday roast and hot chocolate then returned to my tent to read the map.

The sky was stunning as I went to clean my teeth. My horse neighbours were noisy next door.