Hadrian’s wall: Maryport to Silloth. Heading north, lots of coast

Day 1; 20 km; around 6hr

After a rather slow but filling cooked breakfast and nice chats with other guests I set off at 10:15. I found my first national trail sign and set off along the concrete promenade. To sights of Scotland, large smoothly eroded red rocks revealed by the tide, all the dog walkers of the local region, and a gentle sea breeze I made my way along the Solway coast; the views Revealing my route for the next day as the rest of the firth came into view. The blue sky and sun promised a good day with lovely green views over the golf course.

Crossing into the Hadrian’s coast cycleway, i was passed five times by the same wheelchair cyclist in this enjoyable sunny stretch. I missed the chance to climb Swarthy Hill to view the salt pans and milefort 21 but my later legs are glad of the lack of detour!

Reaching Allonby around midday I stoped to put on waterproofs having been watching the rain come in from Scotland. A brief loo, foot, and tea stop showed me a seaside town of very mixed Victorian and fishing architecture.

Exiting Allonby I walked between road and sea along a grassy eroded bank above the beach. The rain came in and out but more exciting were the huge sprays as the sea pounded against the roads Defense while the sea wind blew me sideways. Soon though I was forced onto the road side as the defences came right up to the road but I left it as a nature reserve, filled with rose hips and gathering birds, split the road from the coast.

Then to the tough trudge along km s of sea bank, after Mawbray; up and down grassy dunes, to a sense of isolation -only sea birds for company- with the road hidden and out of hearing to the right, and the sun and rain clearly playing a dancing game as my raincoat come on off on off.

Reaching Beckfoot (which is complimented by the name of village) promised me I had only max 4km to go. This stretch returned to the coast side of the dune bank with the sea looking to my eyes very brown now. With the sun out I set off after I quick sit, but my legs were starting to fall short.

The last kms were gruelling, my legs suddenly really feeling the weight and struggling - I found myself in constant need of breaks, eventually coming to an agreement to walk 15 minutes (1km) without stopping. This led me to the golf course. The discovery my camp was only the other side of the hedge was a huge relief so soon I was in the reception then putting up my tent (aka external sleeping bag as it is so cramped) and persuading myself I’ve never suffered from claustrophobia. A call to my parents, kind interruption from the lady in the caravan next door, then I set off along the hedged path to Silloth, squaffling blackberries on the way to come out eventually in a very strangely perfect area of lawn grass and manacured hedges- then into the less perfect but charming town, where I found to my joy that the fish and chip shop did gluten free- and incredible it was; must have me the best best gf fish chips chips in the country

Then the long plod between the hedgerows back to my camp for a dessert of cold fish and chips

My hip and the inside of my tent!