Hadrian’s Wall: Monkhill to Carlisle (Bleatarn). Not much distance, much tiredness.

Day 4

Blessing of all the sun was out this morning so I could put my (wet) tent down without rain. My little toe had stopped hurting sometime in the night, but the blisters underneath my right foot were stronger than ever. On the recommendation of the owner I set off north to Beaumont rather than short cutting on the road, passig a sleepy dog and skittish cat. I visited Beaumont church and cut down a lane past a large group of driven cows, with a small shower then sun on my face, and had a lovely chat with some walkers I crossed in Kirkandrews.

A little while later, at the top of some steps, I met a lady fumbling to get her raincoat on, and we set off walking together. Tess was an older lady from California, her first time in the uk and first long walk. We discussed weather, education systems, and environmental degradation walking on the well marked way through fields -she was very sensitive about mud which made me glad she hadn’t attempted the routes I had!- and the riverside path past Carlisle. My feet started to really suffer towards this end and I said goodbye stopping to check my blisters; pained but appreciating the distances covered.

Back on my own a continued to trudge the path, really starting to feel the distance as I followed the river, then park to the castle. I walked about three sides of the castle to find the entrance, now feeling Very hungry . At reception I asked if they would mind keeping my bag, with kind agreement (pity?) they let me put it in a hidden cupboard and I bought a ticket to the castle. After a brief look upstairs I trudged across to the military exhibition cafe for some crisps, shortbread, and tea. I then visited more of the castle; the Castle keep contained some really remarkable carvings from the 15th (?) century but I didn’t make the most out of my ticket as my tired body and stiff legs were opposed to the spiral staircases.

Heading out of the castle I visited Carlisle Cathedral (I should probably have only come here and not gone to the castle as it was more interesting and free). This stunning cathedral contained the most elaborate alter I have seen (in a C of E), a glorious painted ceiling, story panels, and intricate carvings, as well as being contained in a lovely close of church buildings.

After, I walked to the market square I had visited on the first day and had a soup and coffee at Cafe Nero whilst publishing yesterday’s blog.

I then collected my bag and headed for Sainsbury’s. With my rucksack in a trolley I went round and round finding the items on my ‘shopping list’ to make sure I have enough food to last me out. The nice lady at the till looked after my bag as I visited toilet and cash machine. I then started to contact taxi companies. Having decided yesterday to take a taxi from Carlisle and walk only the last part, I improved on the plan and asked for a taxi all the way to my new camp. After a few attempts one was on its way (it must have been quite a way as I was waiting quite a while). I had a very pleasant talk with the driver (from Cyprus) as he took me to Bleatarn Campsite. Arriving in what he accurately described as the middle of nowhere, I set up my tent. A talk with the camp owner, then into the shower and washing socks - I didn’t even feel that dirty today yet the stink of the socks is quite remarkable.

I then got my water onto the boil (took a while - I appreciated the efficiency of last camps kettle more than ever!) and sat with soup and tea in the small room. Yummy meal of quickly cooling chicken soup with pita bread and tuna stirred in. I felt very tired.

Ps. IT takes a long pause for each photo to upload so do enjoy them - near an hour doing this one (the text I do on the go in notes)