South Downs Way: day 1-Twyford to Holden Farm

Mum drove me down south. I made us late setting off. I felt sick - probably nervous. Warm and bright but clouded, to the Walkers’ beautiful house. We all had tea in the garden, down by the river- in ‘the river house’ then saw the chickens (with their puffy feathered heads) and I said goodbye to mum. Then a lovely dinner of salmon and courgette and lots of chat.

Day 1 to Holden Farm

I wake tired - nervous excited. Fiona is nervous too. Thanks and goodbye to the Walkers. Off at nine. As I set off my bag feels unbearably heavy. It’s 15kg this time. I can’t wait to eat all that food. I tighten my hip belt. The itchen stream is beautiful.

Shallow and slow and the path is over arched with greenery, meadows and stream then under the motorway where the itchen way becomes a wide tarmac track between trees - like roads for bikes and walkers, away from the cars - paths I wish we had more of, like they did in Germany. And at Catherine’s hill rises in a huge mound - man shaped earth.

Into Winchester. Winchester college is a marvellous building (it could be a Cambridge college but built of flint).

The cathedral square is full of beautiful eclectic buildings from all the eras. The Cathedral is open for visitors (fairly pricey but I get annual entrance and good to support) and I spend a long time inside, gentle music is playing. It is decorated with rainbows. But a cathedral without song. One part I am amazed to enter with beautiful soaring Norman columns and wooden ceilings.

I leave and walk the high street in my mask. A women gets annoyed when I go to the atm, she thought I was skippping the que for the bank. And I buy a wrap crisps and fizzy orange drink from M&S then leave the town. King Alfreds statue, river side path, residential roads, then over the motorway and into the countryside. A tractor throws chalk dust into the air. There’s a squat early Norman church in the hill over chilcomb. A steep road then out in exposed wheat fields.

Hot and tired. I eat lunch on a tumulus in the field. No one passes. The wheat is ready for cropping. My feet hurt when I start. At cheesfoot head Eisenhower addresses 100,000 troops before DDay. It’s not sunny but it’s bright. I wear my hat and enjoy the shelter of beeches. It reminds me of the unexpected but great dappled km s on the cotswold way on dip slopes ridges full of beeches. But the path is mostly broad grey bridleway between hedges or fields. I met a nice gentelman backpacking. on his final stretch - he sounded tired I think his feet were hurting (he’s done it in either four or five days so fair enough!).

I plough on, the track is nearly always broad- snaking white breaking through, feet throbbing (I hope it is just lack of use and they will improve) until I slump on a mound beside the path 2:30 and nearly at my campsite, though it feels much later. I suspect it will rain soon but rest anyway because I don’t want to be there before theee. The grass is thin and full of loud insects and short meadow flowers I do not know.

As I walk I close my eyes and let the warm wind blow my face. Approaching camp: A family group walk by me and the woman asks the little girl ‘do you want to ask this lady if her name is Lucy?’ I’m confused but laugh and say it is- (weird , I presumed that was the girls name), but it’s actually the lady from Holden Farm guessing that I’m the South Downs way walker staying tonight. I walk into Holden Farm, confused by directions but find the campsite reception/shop, pay and set up. It’s very hard to get my pegs into the chalk ground. I hope I done have that problem every night or a wind will blow my tent down. The campsites lovely, I’m set up by the buildings but everyone else is further off. Theres a picnic bench by my tent, toilets/showers, lots of interesting facts about recycling and a room with tables and charging plugs.

I buy a cup of tea and Judes chocolate ice cream and phone home. It’s still overcast but rain is holding off and there are patches of blue. Someone’s flying a kite in the other camping field. I chat to a man stopping to buy a drink: he’s cycling the South Downs way and then to Bristol, today (! And I’m taking 9 for half that?). Nice shower (it went hot then cold then hot but fine), and good sinks to wash my socks in, weirdly the cubicle locks are only just below my reaching height. And there’s a kettle - yay one more day without gas used, hopefully ply it will last the whole trip. My chicken’s disappeared :( i didn’t get a pic of her being funny snooping round my tent (I was very impressed that she somehow knew exactly which bag had the food in- she ran to me every time I picked it up. I’ve got vegan Bolognase for dinner (I warm it in the bag). Dinners finished by 5:30, it’s funny- on the long days I probably won’t be in camp till past 6, but nice. I’ll stay up a bit longer. Hopefully the chicken won’t perch on my tent in the night.